chuipurson valley
Chipursan valley is a network of small and large villages close to the border of Afghanistan and parts of China. Historians say that this was the earliest human settlement of the entire region. Legends testify these claim but the valley remains a mystry for researchers and nature lovers. Chipursan is home to the Irshad Pass that connects Gojal Valley with Afghanistan. Also located in the vicinity of Chipursan Valley are Ishkoman, Buroghil and Yasin valleys.
A distant valley of Hunza that rises from 3000 to 4925 meters high above sea level and 72 kilometers in length along a narrow jeep road from the Karakorum Highway to Baba Ghundi (Shrine) in Pakistan Northern Areas. It starts from Sost and ends on the Irshad Pass which links Pakistan to Afghanistan via the Wakhan Corridor
A Complete Guide of Chipurson Valley
CHIPURSAN (The Valley Of Saints)
Chapursan Valley is located west of Sost, running parallel to the Afghanistan border.
The valley's exceptional beauty makes it a trekking paradise offering endless
Opportunities for exploration and relaxation. To get to Chipursan take the minibus or jeep
to Sost. There are two public jeeps twice a day (leaving around 12pm and 4pm) to the
valley. Please don't forget to bring your trekking food with you because there are no
special shops in Chipursan.
The Chipursan Valley
A Distant valley of Hunza that raises from3000 to 4925 meters high above sea level and 72 kilometers in length along a narrow jeep road from the Karakoram Highway To Baba Ghundi (Shrine) In Pakistan Northern Areas. It starts from Sost and ends on the Irshad Pass which links Pakistan to Afghanistan via the Wakhan Corridor. It's around a 4 hour jeep ride from Sost to Baba Ghundi Ziarat (the tomb of an ancient saint who is said to come from Ghund a place in north of Afghanistan). Though the valley is very narrow, it’s still extremely interesting for tourists because of its high mountains, historical places and mysterious stories. Tourists come to visit special historical places and natural landscapes situated in the valley at different spots.
Leaving Sost (Pakistan China border trade centre), the road crosses a bridge on the KKH
and turns to the left on the first non metallic link road into the high mountains. After 45
mins we reach the first village of Chapursan which is called Yarzrich. The vehicles that
usually make this run are small sized 4x4 ones specially used for tourism. Before
reaching Yazrich we come to Chapursan's first holy place called Punja Shah and near to
this there are many symbols from ancient timesChipursan has a wealth of high snowcapped mountains, fresh water fountains, fresh cool air and attractive glaciers. The people are educated and friendly and live in 12 villages spread throughout the valley. The population of Chapurson is about 4000 living in the following villages. Yarzrich is the first village of Chipursan when coming from Sost. Cundahail and Virkhun are famous meadows of this village and conifer trees are found here in abundance. Raminji is 3095 meters high above sea level on the upper side of the Chipursan link road. Lupghar is also a famous meadow here.
Kirmin (3100m) is the second village and consists of three small subordinate villages
called (Aminabad, Rahimabad and Noorabad). Here are four small treks for Tourists on
different meadows like Spandrin Sar which is surrounded by beautiful green pastures,
rocks springs, fountains and high falls. The rocks are full of different kinds of minerals
like quartz, coal, crystal and many more. There is much work for the geologist in these
parts to discover more valuable minerals. This place is also especially attractive to
wildlife. Though the meadow is considered to be used only for grazing one can find many
different kinds of flowers of which some of the most famous are umber renown for its
distinctive fragrance, Banafsha, Shadunbet, Sosan, Gul Morvoy etc...
This meadow is not only full of flowers but also of many useful herbs which can cure many diseases. Yet of all the herbs, the most famous is Chumuro which can
be brewed as a tea. The beverage has an extremely pleasant aroma that appeals to both resident and visitor alike. Other herbs can also be brewed to cure many diseases known to afflict residents such as flu. They include Bozlanj, yinath (curable for jaundice), Naghurdum wosh (for eye treatment), Youm wosh, Mandirich, suei plute, shpodh, Nilterk and many others. However their importance to science is squandered every day as to this day no significant research has been made regarding the properties of these Himalayan herbs. Other meadows with the above mentioned qualities are Vuin Sue Qeer and both are regarded as special scenic spots for tourists.
The third village is Khill, which consists of two small villages. Here there is also a
beautiful water fall across the river called Sumayar surrounded by greenery and beautiful
pasture areas. The stream flows from the top of a nearby mountain called Khill-a-dur
which welcomes the tourist into its lap. After walking some distance there is another
attractive snowcapped peak and climbing spot for tourists along with a tributary glacier
which leads and connects to the Lupghar and Battura glacier which are encompassed by
the same flowers, herbs & minerals mentioned earlier around Kirmin village.
Fourth is the vibrant village of Rashit whose heart-catching meadow is called Rashtigar.
This eye-catching beauty spot is also a well-known peak for climbing. As pearl drops in a
sea of beauty the villages of Chipursan extend it's entire length and from fifth to last the
villages are Sherisubz, Ispenj, Shitmerg & Kampeer Diyor and finally the hamlet of Zood
Khun. After the last village the meadow areas called Yishkok (3450m), begin which has a
lengthy story which I would like to express to you in detail over the following pages.
After Yishkok, Ruvai Lake follows and then Dankoth meadow and at last Babaghundi
(4000m), the Tomb of the Saint.
People of Chipursan
The People of this valley are noble, mostly educated and employed in different Govt.
Departments as well as in NGO's too. They are extremely hospitable to guests and are
very hardworking.
Language
They speak only Wahki language, which is spoken in Wakhan (Afghanistan) Tajikistan
and Kashgar (China). The language has a history of over 2500 years
and Kashgar (China). The language has a history of over 2500 years.
The Real Story of Yishkok Village
In ancient times there existed a village called Yishkok, the capital of Gojal. Of the two
hundred households, a hundred householders lived in Khirga (tents used by Afghan
people in place of a house and made from sheep's wool) and a hundred lived in houses.
Professionally they were all farmers and earned a living off their cattle, yaks and other
livestock including camels. They clothed themselves from their sheep's wool, made their
own shoes from the hide of their yaks/cattle and ate a simple diet of meat and wheat
Chapatti (unleavened bread). Not only was the colony self reliant it was also protected by
seven large Iron gates. This is especially astonishing considering they were a poor colony
without a well developed economy. How did they prepare the gates? Where did the Iron
come from? Who prepared the gates and how? As I think about this matter, it raises an
interesting question in my mind. At that time there was no road to Yishok so from where
could they carry such materials? Russia, Afghanistan, perhaps even China?
The people of Yish kok village were immoral and uncivilized just like the ancient people
of Kampeer Diyor. They had little respect for others and through their bad culture
committed many wrong doings.
Ruvai hill is a place on the west side and upward of Yishkok village. Once upon a time
there was a big lake there that was very deep, (now there is not one drop to be seen). At
that time a very big Dragon appeared in that large lake at the command of God. It had
eight small heads and one large head and could speak like a human being. The dragon
demanded food from the villagers but the people wouldn’t to support it and so the dragon
made a threat. If the villages do not feed it daily, the dragon will eat all of the people in
one go so that no one is left. The villagers were being punished by God for their bad
character and with no other choice they unwillingly agreed.
The Dragon's daily food was an immense burden on the village. Every day it demanded
either one human being, a large sheep or goat, plus 40 kilograms of traditional ghee and
over 200 chapattis. The Dragon had a fixed time for lunch daily and the villages always
made sure that all the food was in one place well beforehand fearing that if they didn't the
village would be eaten instead. The Yishkok villagers were very disappointed and
extremely helpless during this crucial time. Each day a different household prepared the
dragon's food and each day that household carted the food to the dragon's eating place for
it's lunch.
One day the turn to feed the dragon fell on a house in which there were only three members, a husband, wife and their only daughter. The family was poor and unable to meet the full demands of the dragon. Both the husband and wife tried to decide which one of them should sacrifice themselves to the dragon, as they couldn't bear to kill their only child. They talked silently so that their daughter could not hear. The Husband said to his wife that he will present himself as food for the Dragon, but his wife insisted that she will offer herself in front of the Dragon as food. Their daughter overheard their talking and said that only the offering of herselfto the dragon would suffice. For the sake of her parents, the daughter could not bear to see either mother or father die and face a life in the orphanage. Moreover, her parents
could always have more children in her place As her parents listened on, they strictly forbade their daughter from committing such adeed. How could they ever bear the loss of their only child? How could they ever bear her absence? Yet still the daughter insisted and faced with little choice, the little family made its way to the banks of the lake in readiness for the dragon's midday meal. There they fastened a sheep and left the little girl at the eating spot and returned home in deep grief and sorrow As the girl wallowed deep in thought, a young man suddenly appeared and asked the girlher purpose on this lonely spot. The girl told him that she was the only daughter of her parents and she was here to sacrifice herself to the dragon that lived in the lake, for if she did not, the whole village would be destroyed. The child then became anxious about the safety of the young man and insisted he return from whence he came.
The man listened intently and calming the child, lay his head in her lap for her to check for
lice, as was the Tradition at the time. As the Dragon's lunchtime approached, the waters of the lake beganto writhe and fearful for the young man's safety, the young girl began to cry softly. Her tears woke the man who was deeply moved at the child's anguish. The child repeated that the dragon's dinner time had arrived and he must go quickly for his own safety
Hearing these words the young man stood up and pulling his sword from its sheath,
readied himself to battle the dragon. As the dragon's first head rose from the lake, the
man lashed out and cut it off with a single stroke. The Dragon said "You've cut off only
one head whereas I have eight more to come." "But," the man replied, "I have only used
one sword and I still have eight more swords to come". One by one the Dragon brought
its heads out of the lake and each time, the man cut them off with one stroke until finally
the dragon was no more. The lake was red with the blood of the dead Dragon, and the
dead body began to float on the surface.
Despite the weight, the young man took the dragon's big head on his little finger and
placed on a big stone three times before resting it on the ground. It would normally take
two men to pick up such a head. The man told the girl that when she returns to the
village, many men would claim to be the dragon's killer, yet if he could repeat the actions
of the young man at that moment, then he would be the true slayer. Then he gave his
sword sheath to the girl and said, "Go back, and announce to the villagers that from today
on you all are free from your difficulties and there will be no more problems to bother
you in the future.". The girl returned to Yishkok village and as the young man had
foretold, nobody believed her story. They claimed she was disobedient and they began to
fear for their lives. She told them about the incident but the people did not believe her. She took them with herself and went to the lake and showed them the dead body of the Dragon floating on the surface of water. Then as the man had predicted many men from the village claimed to be the dragon's slayer. So the girl told them that if any man could fit the sword into its sheath, then they were the true killer of the Second, she told them to put the big head of the Dragon on the same stone thrice using only their little finger, which the man had done easily. Every one of them tried their best, but all of them failed. Even three men together could not lift the large head completely! As the claimers were trying to prove to be the
killer besides the lake, the young man appeared and the girl identified him. Not only
could the man fit his sword in the cover, but he was also able to easily raise the dragon's
big head on his little finger and placeon the same stone three times before placing on the
ground. Thus the second test was passed and the villagers were astonished. The man
said to them, "this was your test and from today you are free. There will be no problems
for you now. Go back, be gentle, remember God and give up your bad ways. If you
experience any problems in the future, come to Ruvai (the hilly area west of Yishkok
village) and say "Ya Ali." From then on the villages changed their ways and life
prospered for a while.
Many years later the villagers forgot their past difficulties and once again continued their
bad ways. One day there was a marriage in a house and the villagers arranged for much
music, dance and other immoral dues. That night the party reached a frenzy and with the
lights turned off many of the men entertained immoral activities with the womenfolk at
the party. As the lights switched back on, the men realised with horror that many of
those womenfolk were in fact their close relations. One at the party remembered the
saying of the young man on Ruvai Hill who had told the villagers to come to him in time
of need. Yet was it true that a young man had killed the Dragon? Would he really come
in times of trouble to Ruvai Hill if we shout "Ya Ali" from the hill-top? So off they set
up to Ruvai hill to cry the man's name and test his words.
As the people cried "Ya, Ali" a young man suddenly appeared amongst them riding on a
white horse. He asked the reason of their problem. Not wishing to face embarrassment,
the people insolently claimed that they were being attacked from down the valley. Thus,
the young man set off to greet the attackers and prevent the danger only stopping for
prayer at Sherisubz (present day Jamal Khan). To this day one can still see the
impressions left by his feet, knees and elbows on the same stone and it is a well known
holy place (or 'osthoon') in the valley. Further more, on the occasion of the death of any
person in Chipursan, a beautiful light emits from the place and silently begins to travel
towards the west side of the valley (e.g. towards Ispenj). For three days there afterwards
children's weeping can be heard at this spot. Even more astonishing is that two years
the owner of Rashit's village guest house saw a man with a white beard sitting at the same
place.
The man continued on to Kirmin village where he rested his horse and the site where he placed his horse's saddle is today a walled shrine. Eastwards the man headed towards Yarzrich and at Riship Jerav stream he left the blanket of his horse as a symbol for the future. Finally the man came to the head of the Chipursan valley (today's Sost), but he could see no sign of the people's enemy.
Where he stopped the same man grasped a stone with three fingers and the symbol of that action is present there
today as a walled shrine called Punjab Shah (and from which oil exudes today). The man
then travelled further on still to Irshad top through Yishkok to see whether attackers
could reach the villagers from present day Afghanistan or Russia, but still no one was
coming from that side.
When the man returned to Yishkok, he told the people that they were cunning,
disobedient and dishonest and that the village must repent with it's destruction by a heavy
storm. However not all the villagers were bad and there was one who did not share the
habits of the rest of the village. Mr. Gulbast lived in Yishkok with his family and knew
of the villager's bad ways. He did not attend the marriage at the house the previous night
nor had any of his family members. One night later, the noble man had a dream in which
a saintly man told him to shift his family to Dankoth, a small village higher up the valley.
The saint warned Mr. Gulbast that Yishkok was about to be ruined by a mighty storm from beyond the Khunjerab. The following morning Gulbast awoke early to find his Yak,
which usually grazed far in the mountains above, standing obediently outside his front
door. His worst fears were confirmed and gathering his family members and belongings
they moved to Dankoth village as the first black clouds swirled overhead. As the family
reached Ruvai hill the first rains quickly turned into a violent storm and many of the
nobleman's cattle perished along the way. After reaching Dankoth, the nobleman
returned to Yishkok village but as he reached Ruvai, nothing of the village remained and
only a huge lake stood in its place.
To this day, Punjab Shah is still a pilgrimage site and a lesson for all those people who
wish to test the fate of the people of Yishkok village.
The Real Story of Baba Ghundi Ziarat
This history is originally written in the Persian language and is today in possession of the son's of the late Caliph Adil Baig one of the most famous Ed Baba Ghundi was a venerable and religious preceptor from Ghund in Northern Afghanistan. Despite his youth, the Baba had many pupils and one day he set out on a journey across today's North Pakistan into the Chipursan valley, with an elderly student and the man's two sons. Their luggage was loaded on a simple camel. They began their journey from their home town in Ghund and reached at Punja (in Afghanistan) where they stayed at the home of the Mir & Pir of Punja whose name was Shah Qanbar-i- Aftab. They remained in the Mir's home for 15 days and Baba became engaged to the Mir's daughter. The Pir-i- Punja arranged their marriage and gave them a white camel, two yambus (the most precious ornament or stone) and many other things in stipend to her daughter before seeing them off on their journey.
After many days travel through Puthukh and Sarhad (Northern Afghanistan) the tiny
caravan eventually reached Istiman at the beginning of Chipursan. Without warning,
Baba Ghundi fell into a deep fever and told his distraught followers he was departing this
earth for an eternity of peace. Within half an hour Baba's wife, also lost her life due to
the unbearable grief of her beloved husband's departure. Before his death, Baba
instructed his followers to bury both he and his wife in the same grave, together with one
Yambu. He also entrusted them to carry the rest of his belongings back to the Mir of
Punja to relate what had happened. Thus all the Baba's requirements were fulfilled by the
elderly devotee and his two sons.
After the burial of both Baba Ghundi and his wife the man and his sons set off back to
Afghanistan. Along the way the old man fell sick through old age and told his sons he
was dying. He then entrusted them to complete the journey and to bury his body in the
manner he described. In the final days of the old man's life, the sons cared for their father
and on the fateful night that the old man died, the elder son disappeared. Within time he
returned in great sorrow and told his younger brother how he had stolen the luggage and
the white camel that night and in his folly had lost both in the nearby river whilst crossing.
Before their father had died, he had instructed both sons to load his body on their remaining camel and to bury it wherever the beast lay down along the way. Thus the next morning the two brothers set off. At the place of present day Puthukh, the camel suddenly lay down and the old man's body was buried in a spot that some say is still visible to this day. After the burial the sons continued their grief stricken way back to the Mir of Punja and related all that happened. They expressed their sorrow at the loss of the Baba's items for which the Pir and Mir forgave them and the sons returned home to Ghundi. Thus was told the true tale of Baba Ghundi.
The Lesson of Kampeer Diyor
Kampeer Diyor is a small village (Kampeer means 'old woman' Diyor means 'village')
Situated in Shitmerg the second to last village while traveling from Sost to Chipursan.
This is a real story dating from a previous time when the people who lived here were
carefree, irresponsible and life was easy. The people had wealth and every thing was
available to them. But there also lived one old woman in the village who was very poor
and lived in a cave (which still exists to this day). She had only one black Sheep whose
milk was the only source of her living. The other inhabitants of this small village were
very cruel and had no any idea of humanity or education. Their occupation was farming.
They didn't know how to respect people and how to care for a guest nor did even the
honour of their women. They neglected others and their ways were selfish concerned
only with their enjoyment particularly during weddings.
One night an old man appeared and with a curved stick in his hand went from door to
door in the village asking for a little food to eat. The villagers treated the old man cruelly.
Some laughed at his poorness, others scolded him whilst still others spat on him and
pushed him away from their doors. The Saint continued to visit until at last he reached
the cave of Bedah who was present in her home. Bedah was shocked to find the fellow in
such condition and she exclaimed "Oh! My dear father, who are you? How did you come
to my poor house? I have nothing especial in my house to serve you, I have only a black
Sheep giving me a little milk and this broken pot in which I boil the little milk I have to
live." Despite this, Bedah offered the little milk she had in the broken pot to the saint who
was deeply touched by her generosity. Lowering his curved stick, the saint touched it to
the broken pot and magically the post changed into a new one filled to the brim with milk.
While thanking the old woman he said, "I know that you have many household things in
your home and in those of your neighbours. By noon tomorrow, bring all your
belongings back to your home and climb with them to the high area above the village to
behold the fate of all in this village except you. Bedah started collecting all her pots and
other household things from the other houses. While bringing back all the materials she
forgot her sieve in a house of her neighbour.
The next day at noon, Bedah climbed to the high area above her village (where our
religious prayer hall is built today) and she sat waiting of the foretold event. At exactly
noontime the old man suddenly appeared from a nearby ravine and touching his stick to
the brook a heavy storm followed behind him. Bedah looked on in astonishment as the
storm followed the old man wherever he went stopping where he stopped and
continuing whereever he walked. The flood waters began to rise and Bedah's sieve
appeared on the surface near the old man. With a flick of his crook, he whisked the
utensil towards Bedah who gratefully picked it up. Gradually, the entire village sank
under the heavy storm waters. Local people tell that for seven years after the storm the
cries of the dying villagers could still be heard in that spot.
My (the writer's) uncle Sheikh Hassan says that when he was kid looking for cattle he
was playing with friends when suddenly he saw a hole like a house chimney, similar to
how we build our traditional house roofs these days. Although he couldn't see inside it
because it was too dark he clearly identified that it could only be a house of that time. He
threw stones down the hole and heard the sounds of clanking iron pots as the stones met
their marks. He was only a child and afraid of that unseen event, he hurried back to his
uncle's house to tell about his discovery. He later returned with his Uncle Azamat Shah
to rediscover the home there but they searched and searched in vain and try as they might,
they couldn't find the hole again. Disappointingly they returned home and though my
uncle has searched there many times since, he hasn't able to find the ancient dwelling.
According to our belief it is in possession of Giants and Ferries. There are many places in
our area where people from antiquity have hidden riches in unapproachable places that
attackers couldn't reach or find. In previous times many attackers used to attack this
valley's population from the different parts of nearby countries like Russia, China and
Afghanistan . You know that there was never any harmony, unity and peace within those
peoples.
Discovery of the Tomb Baba Ghundi
In previous times warfare was common to this area and attackers from neighbouring
countries like Afghanistan, Russia and China were often invading each other. Thus every
state vouched for their own safety and stationed soldiers on all their borders. So it was
that the state of Hunza stationed two soldiers at Ziarat Post on its Afghan border. One of
the solders was called Khurram Shah. Both soldiers were on duty one day near the Ziarat (tomb) when suddenly they saw a lame wolf walking from the Western side of Baba Ghundi whilst all the way barking. It was a Wednesday, and when it reached near the graveyard it started walking around a special grave seven times continuing to bark. As it cleared its last round it continued its walk towards the east. When it reached the pasture area, from the same grave the soldiers heard a voice say to the wolf "go I have given you the eleven Sheep of Shursing there at Hindi (Hunza). You will get your food there on
Thursday." The two soldiers were very surprised and identified the same grave.
They decided to confirm what they had seen that day and one of them travelled back to
Hunza (Hindi). After four days the soldier reached Ganish in Hunza and took rest for
some while. Whilst resting, he overheard locals tell that on Thursday eleven sheep of
Sharsing were eaten by a lame wolf. When the Mir of Hunza heard this tale from the
soldier, he came to the Ziarat and ordered his workers to build the tomb in a specific way
over the sight of the grave. The workers built the tomb and successful Mirs continued to
visit the sight and maintain it. After the breakup of Hunza state, the people of Chipursan
continued to maintain the tomb and even today many people still make a pilgrimage to
the tomb to pay their respects.
Today it is clear that the same tomb is sacred. After many years it has been confirmed
that Baba Ghundi (saint) whose name was Muhammad Baqir, had indeed come from
Ghund and died here, buried by his believer. The Journey of Baba Ghundi is also written
in the Persian language and the book is presently in Afghanistan in possession of the
children of the late Caliph Adil Baig. Thus the shrine of Baba Ghundi was discovered by
the lame wolf.
Trekking in the Valley
Here are some suggestions for treks in the Chipursan area. Please contact the local guides as they will give you their best services. Here are some easy day hikes, others involve glacier crossings, horses or yaks. For any questions please ask the local guides and feel free to let them know if you are interested in anything specific.
Kirmin Pass
(2-3 days) Junction of Pamir & Karakoram, see "Silkroad." Possible in 3 days and 2
nights. Visit Vuin Sar see Klik and Mintika and Sue Qeer, a beautiful fresh water lake
and wildlife, connected with Misgar and Qalandarchi fort.
Spandrin Sar, Khrid Sar, Sekr Peak behind Goz and Kirmin Dur
(3 days and 2 nights) Behind Shikore Goz you will find many herbs and flowers and see a
beautiful Peak called Sekr Peak which is unexplored to this day and unique in the area.
Kirmin Dur is connected with Khill Dur and is a very interesting trek with tremendous
wildlife.
Khill Dur, Sumayar, Mashthin
(2 days and 2 nights) High peak (unexplored). Khill Dur is connected with Lupgar and
it's interest lies in its abundant wildlife and good pasture area. Sumayar and Mashthin are
both easy to reach with nice camping and waterfalls.
Rashthigar (meadow) and Rashthigar Peak
(2 days 1 night) An unexplored Peak covered with snow for twelve months and a holy
point (osthoon) for local people. Here an oil exuding stone exists, which when lit
remains bright all night. Rashthigar meadow is connected with Lupgar Meadow and is
an incredibly beautiful place.
Jui Sam & Yishkok
(Easy, nice camping) Start from Zood Khon to explore the nearby lake and swimming or
fishing. Be sure to visit Yishkok glacier to see Chapurson's highest mountain.
Access to Baba Ghundi
(3.5hrs from Yishkok) Easy walk along a jeep road to see the shrine of Baba Ghundi and
Dragon lake. Along the way meet shepherds and Kyrgyz coming down from Afghanistan
to trade. Baba Ghundi makes a great base for other small explorations in the area. You
can alternatively reach Baba Ghundi by Jeep (45 min) or trek along the opposite side of
the road (beautiful camping).
Baba Ghundi to Kuz Sar
(Moderate, unexplored) Camping out on a glacier with views of the Pamir Mountains,
Kuz Sar Peak and more
Pamiri
(Easy, reach by Yak) Visit Chapurson's favorite high point which is especially nice in
June through September with many flowers, wildlife and multi-colored mountains.
Experience Wakhi hospitality and a shepherd's life!
Irshad Vuin
(Moderate/strenuous, reach by horse) This 4925m Pass marks the border with
Afghanistan in the Wakhan Corridor, with an incredible variety of scenery, multi-hued
mountains and Kyrgyz traders.
Ghulam Ali’s Pass
(Moderate/strenuous, unexplored) Experience the Red canyon, glacier crossing, natural
stone bridge and view the Afghan Pamirs at the end of it all.
Lupgar Pir Pass
(Moderate) Cross a glacier, summit the Lupgar Pir Pass (5190) and trek from Yishkok to
Raminji to see two famous snowy Peaks: Saker Sar and another at Lupgar Sar.
Zood Khon Pass to Misgar Valley
(Moderate) Enjoy the view on Yishkok Glacier and Dilisang Sar Peak during your
crossing from one valley into the next. It's possible to extend the trek to see Mintaka Pass
(Chinese border).
Chilinj An
(Strenuous, reach by yak) Dare a glacial crossing with ropes, experience stunning views
and see Karambar Lake & Valley during your crossing from Gojal to Chitral.
Yuksh Goz
(Strenuous, technical) Trek opened in 2001 takes 12-15 days. Cross a glacier with ropes
and trek from Chapurson to Passu via the Batua Glacier which is rarely visited and an
excellent chance to see wildlife.
Special Treks
Rent a Yak (Yaks will be used to transport your luggage).
Go by Horse (Either ride yourself or use horses to transport luggage).
Women with women (Trek to the high pastures with Wakhi women).
Explore new passes (many unclimbed and unnamed peaks).
Useful Information
Guest Houses
1. Village Family Guest House (Chipursan Tourist Guests Guest House) at Rashit Chipurson (for foreign and local tourists) situated at a very pleasant location owned by Subidar® Mr. Sabz Ali.
2. Family Guest House Kirmin (only for foreigners) owned by Mr.Muhammad Wafi.
3. Sumayar Guest House Khill (only for foreigners) owned by Mr. Sher Ahmed Khan
(Tourist Guide).
4. Village Family Guest House Rashit owned by Mr. Iqbal Khan and sons.
5. Village Guest House Sherisubz owned by Mr. Rasool Khan.
6. Family Style Guest House owned by Ahmed Khan at Ispenj.
7. Mr.Alam Jan's Family style Guest House "Pamir Sarai" at Zood Khon and Baba
Ghundi Ziarat.
Respected visitors, in all of the above Guest Houses you will feel easy. You will experience
the environment, eat traditional food and local guides are frequently available.
Jeep Times
Time taken from Sost to the different villages of Chipursan by vehicle:
1. Yarzrich
00:45 min
2. Raminji
00:55 min
3. Karmin
:40 hrs
4. Khill
2:00 hrs
. Rashit
2:15 hrs
6. Sherisubz
2:20 hrs
7. Ispenji
2:35 hrs
Kampeer Diyor
2:45 hrs
9. Shitmerg
2:50 hrs
10. Zood Khun
3:00 hrs
THANK YOU ______________________________________
Chipurson Valley Heaven On The Earth.
chuipurson valley
Chipursan valley is a network of small and large villages close to the border of Afghanistan and parts of China. Historians say that this was the earliest human settlement of the entire region. Legends testify these claim but the valley remains a mystry for researchers and nature lovers. Chipursan is home to the Irshad Pass that connects Gojal Valley with Afghanistan. Also located in the vicinity of Chipursan Valley are Ishkoman, Buroghil and Yasin valleys.
A distant valley of Hunza that rises from 3000 to 4925 meters high above sea level and 72 kilometers in length along a narrow jeep road from the Karakorum Highway to Baba Ghundi (Shrine) in Pakistan Northern Areas. It starts from Sost and ends on the Irshad Pass which links Pakistan to Afghanistan via the Wakhan Corridor
A Complete Guide of Chipurson Valley
CHIPURSAN (The Valley Of Saints)
Chapursan Valley is located west of Sost, running parallel to the Afghanistan border.
The valley's exceptional beauty makes it a trekking paradise offering endless
Opportunities for exploration and relaxation. To get to Chipursan take the minibus or jeep
to Sost. There are two public jeeps twice a day (leaving around 12pm and 4pm) to the
valley. Please don't forget to bring your trekking food with you because there are no
special shops in Chipursan.
The Chipursan Valley
A Distant valley of Hunza that raises from3000 to 4925 meters high above sea level and 72 kilometers in length along a narrow jeep road from the Karakoram Highway To Baba Ghundi (Shrine) In Pakistan Northern Areas. It starts from Sost and ends on the Irshad Pass which links Pakistan to Afghanistan via the Wakhan Corridor. It's around a 4 hour jeep ride from Sost to Baba Ghundi Ziarat (the tomb of an ancient saint who is said to come from Ghund a place in north of Afghanistan). Though the valley is very narrow, it’s still extremely interesting for tourists because of its high mountains, historical places and mysterious stories. Tourists come to visit special historical places and natural landscapes situated in the valley at different spots.
Leaving Sost (Pakistan China border trade centre), the road crosses a bridge on the KKH
and turns to the left on the first non metallic link road into the high mountains. After 45
mins we reach the first village of Chapursan which is called Yarzrich. The vehicles that
usually make this run are small sized 4x4 ones specially used for tourism. Before
reaching Yazrich we come to Chapursan's first holy place called Punja Shah and near to
this there are many symbols from ancient timesChipursan has a wealth of high snowcapped mountains, fresh water fountains, fresh cool air and attractive glaciers. The people are educated and friendly and live in 12 villages spread throughout the valley. The population of Chapurson is about 4000 living in the following villages. Yarzrich is the first village of Chipursan when coming from Sost. Cundahail and Virkhun are famous meadows of this village and conifer trees are found here in abundance. Raminji is 3095 meters high above sea level on the upper side of the Chipursan link road. Lupghar is also a famous meadow here.
Kirmin (3100m) is the second village and consists of three small subordinate villages
called (Aminabad, Rahimabad and Noorabad). Here are four small treks for Tourists on
different meadows like Spandrin Sar which is surrounded by beautiful green pastures,
rocks springs, fountains and high falls. The rocks are full of different kinds of minerals
like quartz, coal, crystal and many more. There is much work for the geologist in these
parts to discover more valuable minerals. This place is also especially attractive to
wildlife. Though the meadow is considered to be used only for grazing one can find many
different kinds of flowers of which some of the most famous are umber renown for its
distinctive fragrance, Banafsha, Shadunbet, Sosan, Gul Morvoy etc...
This meadow is not only full of flowers but also of many useful herbs which can cure many diseases. Yet of all the herbs, the most famous is Chumuro which can
be brewed as a tea. The beverage has an extremely pleasant aroma that appeals to both resident and visitor alike. Other herbs can also be brewed to cure many diseases known to afflict residents such as flu. They include Bozlanj, yinath (curable for jaundice), Naghurdum wosh (for eye treatment), Youm wosh, Mandirich, suei plute, shpodh, Nilterk and many others. However their importance to science is squandered every day as to this day no significant research has been made regarding the properties of these Himalayan herbs. Other meadows with the above mentioned qualities are Vuin Sue Qeer and both are regarded as special scenic spots for tourists.
The third village is Khill, which consists of two small villages. Here there is also a
beautiful water fall across the river called Sumayar surrounded by greenery and beautiful
pasture areas. The stream flows from the top of a nearby mountain called Khill-a-dur
which welcomes the tourist into its lap. After walking some distance there is another
attractive snowcapped peak and climbing spot for tourists along with a tributary glacier
which leads and connects to the Lupghar and Battura glacier which are encompassed by
the same flowers, herbs & minerals mentioned earlier around Kirmin village.
Fourth is the vibrant village of Rashit whose heart-catching meadow is called Rashtigar.
This eye-catching beauty spot is also a well-known peak for climbing. As pearl drops in a
sea of beauty the villages of Chipursan extend it's entire length and from fifth to last the
villages are Sherisubz, Ispenj, Shitmerg & Kampeer Diyor and finally the hamlet of Zood
Khun. After the last village the meadow areas called Yishkok (3450m), begin which has a
lengthy story which I would like to express to you in detail over the following pages.
After Yishkok, Ruvai Lake follows and then Dankoth meadow and at last Babaghundi
(4000m), the Tomb of the Saint.
People of Chipursan
The People of this valley are noble, mostly educated and employed in different Govt.
Departments as well as in NGO's too. They are extremely hospitable to guests and are
very hardworking.
Language
They speak only Wahki language, which is spoken in Wakhan (Afghanistan) Tajikistan
and Kashgar (China). The language has a history of over 2500 years
and Kashgar (China). The language has a history of over 2500 years.
The Real Story of Yishkok Village
In ancient times there existed a village called Yishkok, the capital of Gojal. Of the two
hundred households, a hundred householders lived in Khirga (tents used by Afghan
people in place of a house and made from sheep's wool) and a hundred lived in houses.
Professionally they were all farmers and earned a living off their cattle, yaks and other
livestock including camels. They clothed themselves from their sheep's wool, made their
own shoes from the hide of their yaks/cattle and ate a simple diet of meat and wheat
Chapatti (unleavened bread). Not only was the colony self reliant it was also protected by
seven large Iron gates. This is especially astonishing considering they were a poor colony
without a well developed economy. How did they prepare the gates? Where did the Iron
come from? Who prepared the gates and how? As I think about this matter, it raises an
interesting question in my mind. At that time there was no road to Yishok so from where
could they carry such materials? Russia, Afghanistan, perhaps even China?
The people of Yish kok village were immoral and uncivilized just like the ancient people
of Kampeer Diyor. They had little respect for others and through their bad culture
committed many wrong doings.
Ruvai hill is a place on the west side and upward of Yishkok village. Once upon a time
there was a big lake there that was very deep, (now there is not one drop to be seen). At
that time a very big Dragon appeared in that large lake at the command of God. It had
eight small heads and one large head and could speak like a human being. The dragon
demanded food from the villagers but the people wouldn’t to support it and so the dragon
made a threat. If the villages do not feed it daily, the dragon will eat all of the people in
one go so that no one is left. The villagers were being punished by God for their bad
character and with no other choice they unwillingly agreed.
The Dragon's daily food was an immense burden on the village. Every day it demanded
either one human being, a large sheep or goat, plus 40 kilograms of traditional ghee and
over 200 chapattis. The Dragon had a fixed time for lunch daily and the villages always
made sure that all the food was in one place well beforehand fearing that if they didn't the
village would be eaten instead. The Yishkok villagers were very disappointed and
extremely helpless during this crucial time. Each day a different household prepared the
dragon's food and each day that household carted the food to the dragon's eating place for
it's lunch.
One day the turn to feed the dragon fell on a house in which there were only three members, a husband, wife and their only daughter. The family was poor and unable to meet the full demands of the dragon. Both the husband and wife tried to decide which one of them should sacrifice themselves to the dragon, as they couldn't bear to kill their only child. They talked silently so that their daughter could not hear. The Husband said to his wife that he will present himself as food for the Dragon, but his wife insisted that she will offer herself in front of the Dragon as food. Their daughter overheard their talking and said that only the offering of herselfto the dragon would suffice. For the sake of her parents, the daughter could not bear to see either mother or father die and face a life in the orphanage. Moreover, her parents
could always have more children in her place As her parents listened on, they strictly forbade their daughter from committing such adeed. How could they ever bear the loss of their only child? How could they ever bear her absence? Yet still the daughter insisted and faced with little choice, the little family made its way to the banks of the lake in readiness for the dragon's midday meal. There they fastened a sheep and left the little girl at the eating spot and returned home in deep grief and sorrow As the girl wallowed deep in thought, a young man suddenly appeared and asked the girlher purpose on this lonely spot. The girl told him that she was the only daughter of her parents and she was here to sacrifice herself to the dragon that lived in the lake, for if she did not, the whole village would be destroyed. The child then became anxious about the safety of the young man and insisted he return from whence he came.
The man listened intently and calming the child, lay his head in her lap for her to check for
lice, as was the Tradition at the time. As the Dragon's lunchtime approached, the waters of the lake beganto writhe and fearful for the young man's safety, the young girl began to cry softly. Her tears woke the man who was deeply moved at the child's anguish. The child repeated that the dragon's dinner time had arrived and he must go quickly for his own safety
Hearing these words the young man stood up and pulling his sword from its sheath,
readied himself to battle the dragon. As the dragon's first head rose from the lake, the
man lashed out and cut it off with a single stroke. The Dragon said "You've cut off only
one head whereas I have eight more to come." "But," the man replied, "I have only used
one sword and I still have eight more swords to come". One by one the Dragon brought
its heads out of the lake and each time, the man cut them off with one stroke until finally
the dragon was no more. The lake was red with the blood of the dead Dragon, and the
dead body began to float on the surface.
Despite the weight, the young man took the dragon's big head on his little finger and
placed on a big stone three times before resting it on the ground. It would normally take
two men to pick up such a head. The man told the girl that when she returns to the
village, many men would claim to be the dragon's killer, yet if he could repeat the actions
of the young man at that moment, then he would be the true slayer. Then he gave his
sword sheath to the girl and said, "Go back, and announce to the villagers that from today
on you all are free from your difficulties and there will be no more problems to bother
you in the future.". The girl returned to Yishkok village and as the young man had
foretold, nobody believed her story. They claimed she was disobedient and they began to
fear for their lives. She told them about the incident but the people did not believe her. She took them with herself and went to the lake and showed them the dead body of the Dragon floating on the surface of water. Then as the man had predicted many men from the village claimed to be the dragon's slayer. So the girl told them that if any man could fit the sword into its sheath, then they were the true killer of the Second, she told them to put the big head of the Dragon on the same stone thrice using only their little finger, which the man had done easily. Every one of them tried their best, but all of them failed. Even three men together could not lift the large head completely! As the claimers were trying to prove to be the
killer besides the lake, the young man appeared and the girl identified him. Not only
could the man fit his sword in the cover, but he was also able to easily raise the dragon's
big head on his little finger and placeon the same stone three times before placing on the
ground. Thus the second test was passed and the villagers were astonished. The man
said to them, "this was your test and from today you are free. There will be no problems
for you now. Go back, be gentle, remember God and give up your bad ways. If you
experience any problems in the future, come to Ruvai (the hilly area west of Yishkok
village) and say "Ya Ali." From then on the villages changed their ways and life
prospered for a while.
Many years later the villagers forgot their past difficulties and once again continued their
bad ways. One day there was a marriage in a house and the villagers arranged for much
music, dance and other immoral dues. That night the party reached a frenzy and with the
lights turned off many of the men entertained immoral activities with the womenfolk at
the party. As the lights switched back on, the men realised with horror that many of
those womenfolk were in fact their close relations. One at the party remembered the
saying of the young man on Ruvai Hill who had told the villagers to come to him in time
of need. Yet was it true that a young man had killed the Dragon? Would he really come
in times of trouble to Ruvai Hill if we shout "Ya Ali" from the hill-top? So off they set
up to Ruvai hill to cry the man's name and test his words.
As the people cried "Ya, Ali" a young man suddenly appeared amongst them riding on a
white horse. He asked the reason of their problem. Not wishing to face embarrassment,
the people insolently claimed that they were being attacked from down the valley. Thus,
the young man set off to greet the attackers and prevent the danger only stopping for
prayer at Sherisubz (present day Jamal Khan). To this day one can still see the
impressions left by his feet, knees and elbows on the same stone and it is a well known
holy place (or 'osthoon') in the valley. Further more, on the occasion of the death of any
person in Chipursan, a beautiful light emits from the place and silently begins to travel
towards the west side of the valley (e.g. towards Ispenj). For three days there afterwards
children's weeping can be heard at this spot. Even more astonishing is that two years
the owner of Rashit's village guest house saw a man with a white beard sitting at the same
place.
The man continued on to Kirmin village where he rested his horse and the site where he placed his horse's saddle is today a walled shrine. Eastwards the man headed towards Yarzrich and at Riship Jerav stream he left the blanket of his horse as a symbol for the future. Finally the man came to the head of the Chipursan valley (today's Sost), but he could see no sign of the people's enemy.
Where he stopped the same man grasped a stone with three fingers and the symbol of that action is present there
today as a walled shrine called Punjab Shah (and from which oil exudes today). The man
then travelled further on still to Irshad top through Yishkok to see whether attackers
could reach the villagers from present day Afghanistan or Russia, but still no one was
coming from that side.
When the man returned to Yishkok, he told the people that they were cunning,
disobedient and dishonest and that the village must repent with it's destruction by a heavy
storm. However not all the villagers were bad and there was one who did not share the
habits of the rest of the village. Mr. Gulbast lived in Yishkok with his family and knew
of the villager's bad ways. He did not attend the marriage at the house the previous night
nor had any of his family members. One night later, the noble man had a dream in which
a saintly man told him to shift his family to Dankoth, a small village higher up the valley.
The saint warned Mr. Gulbast that Yishkok was about to be ruined by a mighty storm from beyond the Khunjerab. The following morning Gulbast awoke early to find his Yak,
which usually grazed far in the mountains above, standing obediently outside his front
door. His worst fears were confirmed and gathering his family members and belongings
they moved to Dankoth village as the first black clouds swirled overhead. As the family
reached Ruvai hill the first rains quickly turned into a violent storm and many of the
nobleman's cattle perished along the way. After reaching Dankoth, the nobleman
returned to Yishkok village but as he reached Ruvai, nothing of the village remained and
only a huge lake stood in its place.
To this day, Punjab Shah is still a pilgrimage site and a lesson for all those people who
wish to test the fate of the people of Yishkok village.
The Real Story of Baba Ghundi Ziarat
This history is originally written in the Persian language and is today in possession of the son's of the late Caliph Adil Baig one of the most famous Ed Baba Ghundi was a venerable and religious preceptor from Ghund in Northern Afghanistan. Despite his youth, the Baba had many pupils and one day he set out on a journey across today's North Pakistan into the Chipursan valley, with an elderly student and the man's two sons. Their luggage was loaded on a simple camel. They began their journey from their home town in Ghund and reached at Punja (in Afghanistan) where they stayed at the home of the Mir & Pir of Punja whose name was Shah Qanbar-i- Aftab. They remained in the Mir's home for 15 days and Baba became engaged to the Mir's daughter. The Pir-i- Punja arranged their marriage and gave them a white camel, two yambus (the most precious ornament or stone) and many other things in stipend to her daughter before seeing them off on their journey.
After many days travel through Puthukh and Sarhad (Northern Afghanistan) the tiny
caravan eventually reached Istiman at the beginning of Chipursan. Without warning,
Baba Ghundi fell into a deep fever and told his distraught followers he was departing this
earth for an eternity of peace. Within half an hour Baba's wife, also lost her life due to
the unbearable grief of her beloved husband's departure. Before his death, Baba
instructed his followers to bury both he and his wife in the same grave, together with one
Yambu. He also entrusted them to carry the rest of his belongings back to the Mir of
Punja to relate what had happened. Thus all the Baba's requirements were fulfilled by the
elderly devotee and his two sons.
After the burial of both Baba Ghundi and his wife the man and his sons set off back to
Afghanistan. Along the way the old man fell sick through old age and told his sons he
was dying. He then entrusted them to complete the journey and to bury his body in the
manner he described. In the final days of the old man's life, the sons cared for their father
and on the fateful night that the old man died, the elder son disappeared. Within time he
returned in great sorrow and told his younger brother how he had stolen the luggage and
the white camel that night and in his folly had lost both in the nearby river whilst crossing.
Before their father had died, he had instructed both sons to load his body on their remaining camel and to bury it wherever the beast lay down along the way. Thus the next morning the two brothers set off. At the place of present day Puthukh, the camel suddenly lay down and the old man's body was buried in a spot that some say is still visible to this day. After the burial the sons continued their grief stricken way back to the Mir of Punja and related all that happened. They expressed their sorrow at the loss of the Baba's items for which the Pir and Mir forgave them and the sons returned home to Ghundi. Thus was told the true tale of Baba Ghundi.
The Lesson of Kampeer Diyor
Kampeer Diyor is a small village (Kampeer means 'old woman' Diyor means 'village')
Situated in Shitmerg the second to last village while traveling from Sost to Chipursan.
This is a real story dating from a previous time when the people who lived here were
carefree, irresponsible and life was easy. The people had wealth and every thing was
available to them. But there also lived one old woman in the village who was very poor
and lived in a cave (which still exists to this day). She had only one black Sheep whose
milk was the only source of her living. The other inhabitants of this small village were
very cruel and had no any idea of humanity or education. Their occupation was farming.
They didn't know how to respect people and how to care for a guest nor did even the
honour of their women. They neglected others and their ways were selfish concerned
only with their enjoyment particularly during weddings.
One night an old man appeared and with a curved stick in his hand went from door to
door in the village asking for a little food to eat. The villagers treated the old man cruelly.
Some laughed at his poorness, others scolded him whilst still others spat on him and
pushed him away from their doors. The Saint continued to visit until at last he reached
the cave of Bedah who was present in her home. Bedah was shocked to find the fellow in
such condition and she exclaimed "Oh! My dear father, who are you? How did you come
to my poor house? I have nothing especial in my house to serve you, I have only a black
Sheep giving me a little milk and this broken pot in which I boil the little milk I have to
live." Despite this, Bedah offered the little milk she had in the broken pot to the saint who
was deeply touched by her generosity. Lowering his curved stick, the saint touched it to
the broken pot and magically the post changed into a new one filled to the brim with milk.
While thanking the old woman he said, "I know that you have many household things in
your home and in those of your neighbours. By noon tomorrow, bring all your
belongings back to your home and climb with them to the high area above the village to
behold the fate of all in this village except you. Bedah started collecting all her pots and
other household things from the other houses. While bringing back all the materials she
forgot her sieve in a house of her neighbour.
The next day at noon, Bedah climbed to the high area above her village (where our
religious prayer hall is built today) and she sat waiting of the foretold event. At exactly
noontime the old man suddenly appeared from a nearby ravine and touching his stick to
the brook a heavy storm followed behind him. Bedah looked on in astonishment as the
storm followed the old man wherever he went stopping where he stopped and
continuing whereever he walked. The flood waters began to rise and Bedah's sieve
appeared on the surface near the old man. With a flick of his crook, he whisked the
utensil towards Bedah who gratefully picked it up. Gradually, the entire village sank
under the heavy storm waters. Local people tell that for seven years after the storm the
cries of the dying villagers could still be heard in that spot.
My (the writer's) uncle Sheikh Hassan says that when he was kid looking for cattle he
was playing with friends when suddenly he saw a hole like a house chimney, similar to
how we build our traditional house roofs these days. Although he couldn't see inside it
because it was too dark he clearly identified that it could only be a house of that time. He
threw stones down the hole and heard the sounds of clanking iron pots as the stones met
their marks. He was only a child and afraid of that unseen event, he hurried back to his
uncle's house to tell about his discovery. He later returned with his Uncle Azamat Shah
to rediscover the home there but they searched and searched in vain and try as they might,
they couldn't find the hole again. Disappointingly they returned home and though my
uncle has searched there many times since, he hasn't able to find the ancient dwelling.
According to our belief it is in possession of Giants and Ferries. There are many places in
our area where people from antiquity have hidden riches in unapproachable places that
attackers couldn't reach or find. In previous times many attackers used to attack this
valley's population from the different parts of nearby countries like Russia, China and
Afghanistan . You know that there was never any harmony, unity and peace within those
peoples.
Discovery of the Tomb Baba Ghundi
In previous times warfare was common to this area and attackers from neighbouring
countries like Afghanistan, Russia and China were often invading each other. Thus every
state vouched for their own safety and stationed soldiers on all their borders. So it was
that the state of Hunza stationed two soldiers at Ziarat Post on its Afghan border. One of
the solders was called Khurram Shah. Both soldiers were on duty one day near the Ziarat (tomb) when suddenly they saw a lame wolf walking from the Western side of Baba Ghundi whilst all the way barking. It was a Wednesday, and when it reached near the graveyard it started walking around a special grave seven times continuing to bark. As it cleared its last round it continued its walk towards the east. When it reached the pasture area, from the same grave the soldiers heard a voice say to the wolf "go I have given you the eleven Sheep of Shursing there at Hindi (Hunza). You will get your food there on
Thursday." The two soldiers were very surprised and identified the same grave.
They decided to confirm what they had seen that day and one of them travelled back to
Hunza (Hindi). After four days the soldier reached Ganish in Hunza and took rest for
some while. Whilst resting, he overheard locals tell that on Thursday eleven sheep of
Sharsing were eaten by a lame wolf. When the Mir of Hunza heard this tale from the
soldier, he came to the Ziarat and ordered his workers to build the tomb in a specific way
over the sight of the grave. The workers built the tomb and successful Mirs continued to
visit the sight and maintain it. After the breakup of Hunza state, the people of Chipursan
continued to maintain the tomb and even today many people still make a pilgrimage to
the tomb to pay their respects.
Today it is clear that the same tomb is sacred. After many years it has been confirmed
that Baba Ghundi (saint) whose name was Muhammad Baqir, had indeed come from
Ghund and died here, buried by his believer. The Journey of Baba Ghundi is also written
in the Persian language and the book is presently in Afghanistan in possession of the
children of the late Caliph Adil Baig. Thus the shrine of Baba Ghundi was discovered by
the lame wolf.
Trekking in the Valley
Here are some suggestions for treks in the Chipursan area. Please contact the local guides as they will give you their best services. Here are some easy day hikes, others involve glacier crossings, horses or yaks. For any questions please ask the local guides and feel free to let them know if you are interested in anything specific.
Kirmin Pass
(2-3 days) Junction of Pamir & Karakoram, see "Silkroad." Possible in 3 days and 2
nights. Visit Vuin Sar see Klik and Mintika and Sue Qeer, a beautiful fresh water lake
and wildlife, connected with Misgar and Qalandarchi fort.
Spandrin Sar, Khrid Sar, Sekr Peak behind Goz and Kirmin Dur
(3 days and 2 nights) Behind Shikore Goz you will find many herbs and flowers and see a
beautiful Peak called Sekr Peak which is unexplored to this day and unique in the area.
Kirmin Dur is connected with Khill Dur and is a very interesting trek with tremendous
wildlife.
Khill Dur, Sumayar, Mashthin
(2 days and 2 nights) High peak (unexplored). Khill Dur is connected with Lupgar and
it's interest lies in its abundant wildlife and good pasture area. Sumayar and Mashthin are
both easy to reach with nice camping and waterfalls.
Rashthigar (meadow) and Rashthigar Peak
(2 days 1 night) An unexplored Peak covered with snow for twelve months and a holy
point (osthoon) for local people. Here an oil exuding stone exists, which when lit
remains bright all night. Rashthigar meadow is connected with Lupgar Meadow and is
an incredibly beautiful place.
Jui Sam & Yishkok
(Easy, nice camping) Start from Zood Khon to explore the nearby lake and swimming or
fishing. Be sure to visit Yishkok glacier to see Chapurson's highest mountain.
Access to Baba Ghundi
(3.5hrs from Yishkok) Easy walk along a jeep road to see the shrine of Baba Ghundi and
Dragon lake. Along the way meet shepherds and Kyrgyz coming down from Afghanistan
to trade. Baba Ghundi makes a great base for other small explorations in the area. You
can alternatively reach Baba Ghundi by Jeep (45 min) or trek along the opposite side of
the road (beautiful camping).
Baba Ghundi to Kuz Sar
(Moderate, unexplored) Camping out on a glacier with views of the Pamir Mountains,
Kuz Sar Peak and more
Pamiri
(Easy, reach by Yak) Visit Chapurson's favorite high point which is especially nice in
June through September with many flowers, wildlife and multi-colored mountains.
Experience Wakhi hospitality and a shepherd's life!
Irshad Vuin
(Moderate/strenuous, reach by horse) This 4925m Pass marks the border with
Afghanistan in the Wakhan Corridor, with an incredible variety of scenery, multi-hued
mountains and Kyrgyz traders.
Ghulam Ali’s Pass
(Moderate/strenuous, unexplored) Experience the Red canyon, glacier crossing, natural
stone bridge and view the Afghan Pamirs at the end of it all.
Lupgar Pir Pass
(Moderate) Cross a glacier, summit the Lupgar Pir Pass (5190) and trek from Yishkok to
Raminji to see two famous snowy Peaks: Saker Sar and another at Lupgar Sar.
Zood Khon Pass to Misgar Valley
(Moderate) Enjoy the view on Yishkok Glacier and Dilisang Sar Peak during your
crossing from one valley into the next. It's possible to extend the trek to see Mintaka Pass
(Chinese border).
Chilinj An
(Strenuous, reach by yak) Dare a glacial crossing with ropes, experience stunning views
and see Karambar Lake & Valley during your crossing from Gojal to Chitral.
Yuksh Goz
(Strenuous, technical) Trek opened in 2001 takes 12-15 days. Cross a glacier with ropes
and trek from Chapurson to Passu via the Batua Glacier which is rarely visited and an
excellent chance to see wildlife.
Special Treks
Rent a Yak (Yaks will be used to transport your luggage).
Go by Horse (Either ride yourself or use horses to transport luggage).
Women with women (Trek to the high pastures with Wakhi women).
Explore new passes (many unclimbed and unnamed peaks).
Useful Information
Guest Houses
1. Village Family Guest House (Chipursan Tourist Guests Guest House) at Rashit Chipurson (for foreign and local tourists) situated at a very pleasant location owned by Subidar® Mr. Sabz Ali.
2. Family Guest House Kirmin (only for foreigners) owned by Mr.Muhammad Wafi.
3. Sumayar Guest House Khill (only for foreigners) owned by Mr. Sher Ahmed Khan
(Tourist Guide).
4. Village Family Guest House Rashit owned by Mr. Iqbal Khan and sons.
5. Village Guest House Sherisubz owned by Mr. Rasool Khan.
6. Family Style Guest House owned by Ahmed Khan at Ispenj.
7. Mr.Alam Jan's Family style Guest House "Pamir Sarai" at Zood Khon and Baba
Ghundi Ziarat.
Respected visitors, in all of the above Guest Houses you will feel easy. You will experience
the environment, eat traditional food and local guides are frequently available.
Jeep Times
Time taken from Sost to the different villages of Chipursan by vehicle:
1. Yarzrich
00:45 min
2. Raminji
00:55 min
3. Karmin
:40 hrs
4. Khill
2:00 hrs
. Rashit
2:15 hrs
6. Sherisubz
2:20 hrs
7. Ispenji
2:35 hrs
Kampeer Diyor
2:45 hrs
9. Shitmerg
2:50 hrs
10. Zood Khun
3:00 hrs
THANK YOU ______________________________________
Chipursan valley is a network of small and large villages close to the border of Afghanistan and parts of China. Historians say that this was the earliest human settlement of the entire region. Legends testify these claim but the valley remains a mystry for researchers and nature lovers. Chipursan is home to the Irshad Pass that connects Gojal Valley with Afghanistan. Also located in the vicinity of Chipursan Valley are Ishkoman, Buroghil and Yasin valleys.
A distant valley of Hunza that rises from 3000 to 4925 meters high above sea level and 72 kilometers in length along a narrow jeep road from the Karakorum Highway to Baba Ghundi (Shrine) in Pakistan Northern Areas. It starts from Sost and ends on the Irshad Pass which links Pakistan to Afghanistan via the Wakhan Corridor
A Complete Guide of Chipurson Valley
CHIPURSAN (The Valley Of Saints)
Chapursan Valley is located west of Sost, running parallel to the Afghanistan border.
The valley's exceptional beauty makes it a trekking paradise offering endless
Opportunities for exploration and relaxation. To get to Chipursan take the minibus or jeep
to Sost. There are two public jeeps twice a day (leaving around 12pm and 4pm) to the
valley. Please don't forget to bring your trekking food with you because there are no
special shops in Chipursan.
The Chipursan Valley
A Distant valley of Hunza that raises from3000 to 4925 meters high above sea level and 72 kilometers in length along a narrow jeep road from the Karakoram Highway To Baba Ghundi (Shrine) In Pakistan Northern Areas. It starts from Sost and ends on the Irshad Pass which links Pakistan to Afghanistan via the Wakhan Corridor. It's around a 4 hour jeep ride from Sost to Baba Ghundi Ziarat (the tomb of an ancient saint who is said to come from Ghund a place in north of Afghanistan). Though the valley is very narrow, it’s still extremely interesting for tourists because of its high mountains, historical places and mysterious stories. Tourists come to visit special historical places and natural landscapes situated in the valley at different spots.
Leaving Sost (Pakistan China border trade centre), the road crosses a bridge on the KKH
and turns to the left on the first non metallic link road into the high mountains. After 45
mins we reach the first village of Chapursan which is called Yarzrich. The vehicles that
usually make this run are small sized 4x4 ones specially used for tourism. Before
reaching Yazrich we come to Chapursan's first holy place called Punja Shah and near to
this there are many symbols from ancient timesChipursan has a wealth of high snowcapped mountains, fresh water fountains, fresh cool air and attractive glaciers. The people are educated and friendly and live in 12 villages spread throughout the valley. The population of Chapurson is about 4000 living in the following villages. Yarzrich is the first village of Chipursan when coming from Sost. Cundahail and Virkhun are famous meadows of this village and conifer trees are found here in abundance. Raminji is 3095 meters high above sea level on the upper side of the Chipursan link road. Lupghar is also a famous meadow here.
Kirmin (3100m) is the second village and consists of three small subordinate villages
called (Aminabad, Rahimabad and Noorabad). Here are four small treks for Tourists on
different meadows like Spandrin Sar which is surrounded by beautiful green pastures,
rocks springs, fountains and high falls. The rocks are full of different kinds of minerals
like quartz, coal, crystal and many more. There is much work for the geologist in these
parts to discover more valuable minerals. This place is also especially attractive to
wildlife. Though the meadow is considered to be used only for grazing one can find many
different kinds of flowers of which some of the most famous are umber renown for its
distinctive fragrance, Banafsha, Shadunbet, Sosan, Gul Morvoy etc...
This meadow is not only full of flowers but also of many useful herbs which can cure many diseases. Yet of all the herbs, the most famous is Chumuro which can
be brewed as a tea. The beverage has an extremely pleasant aroma that appeals to both resident and visitor alike. Other herbs can also be brewed to cure many diseases known to afflict residents such as flu. They include Bozlanj, yinath (curable for jaundice), Naghurdum wosh (for eye treatment), Youm wosh, Mandirich, suei plute, shpodh, Nilterk and many others. However their importance to science is squandered every day as to this day no significant research has been made regarding the properties of these Himalayan herbs. Other meadows with the above mentioned qualities are Vuin Sue Qeer and both are regarded as special scenic spots for tourists.
The third village is Khill, which consists of two small villages. Here there is also a
beautiful water fall across the river called Sumayar surrounded by greenery and beautiful
pasture areas. The stream flows from the top of a nearby mountain called Khill-a-dur
which welcomes the tourist into its lap. After walking some distance there is another
attractive snowcapped peak and climbing spot for tourists along with a tributary glacier
which leads and connects to the Lupghar and Battura glacier which are encompassed by
the same flowers, herbs & minerals mentioned earlier around Kirmin village.
Fourth is the vibrant village of Rashit whose heart-catching meadow is called Rashtigar.
This eye-catching beauty spot is also a well-known peak for climbing. As pearl drops in a
sea of beauty the villages of Chipursan extend it's entire length and from fifth to last the
villages are Sherisubz, Ispenj, Shitmerg & Kampeer Diyor and finally the hamlet of Zood
Khun. After the last village the meadow areas called Yishkok (3450m), begin which has a
lengthy story which I would like to express to you in detail over the following pages.
After Yishkok, Ruvai Lake follows and then Dankoth meadow and at last Babaghundi
(4000m), the Tomb of the Saint.
People of Chipursan
The People of this valley are noble, mostly educated and employed in different Govt.
Departments as well as in NGO's too. They are extremely hospitable to guests and are
very hardworking.
Language
They speak only Wahki language, which is spoken in Wakhan (Afghanistan) Tajikistan
and Kashgar (China). The language has a history of over 2500 years
and Kashgar (China). The language has a history of over 2500 years.
The Real Story of Yishkok Village
In ancient times there existed a village called Yishkok, the capital of Gojal. Of the two
hundred households, a hundred householders lived in Khirga (tents used by Afghan
people in place of a house and made from sheep's wool) and a hundred lived in houses.
Professionally they were all farmers and earned a living off their cattle, yaks and other
livestock including camels. They clothed themselves from their sheep's wool, made their
own shoes from the hide of their yaks/cattle and ate a simple diet of meat and wheat
Chapatti (unleavened bread). Not only was the colony self reliant it was also protected by
seven large Iron gates. This is especially astonishing considering they were a poor colony
without a well developed economy. How did they prepare the gates? Where did the Iron
come from? Who prepared the gates and how? As I think about this matter, it raises an
interesting question in my mind. At that time there was no road to Yishok so from where
could they carry such materials? Russia, Afghanistan, perhaps even China?
The people of Yish kok village were immoral and uncivilized just like the ancient people
of Kampeer Diyor. They had little respect for others and through their bad culture
committed many wrong doings.
Ruvai hill is a place on the west side and upward of Yishkok village. Once upon a time
there was a big lake there that was very deep, (now there is not one drop to be seen). At
that time a very big Dragon appeared in that large lake at the command of God. It had
eight small heads and one large head and could speak like a human being. The dragon
demanded food from the villagers but the people wouldn’t to support it and so the dragon
made a threat. If the villages do not feed it daily, the dragon will eat all of the people in
one go so that no one is left. The villagers were being punished by God for their bad
character and with no other choice they unwillingly agreed.
The Dragon's daily food was an immense burden on the village. Every day it demanded
either one human being, a large sheep or goat, plus 40 kilograms of traditional ghee and
over 200 chapattis. The Dragon had a fixed time for lunch daily and the villages always
made sure that all the food was in one place well beforehand fearing that if they didn't the
village would be eaten instead. The Yishkok villagers were very disappointed and
extremely helpless during this crucial time. Each day a different household prepared the
dragon's food and each day that household carted the food to the dragon's eating place for
it's lunch.
One day the turn to feed the dragon fell on a house in which there were only three members, a husband, wife and their only daughter. The family was poor and unable to meet the full demands of the dragon. Both the husband and wife tried to decide which one of them should sacrifice themselves to the dragon, as they couldn't bear to kill their only child. They talked silently so that their daughter could not hear. The Husband said to his wife that he will present himself as food for the Dragon, but his wife insisted that she will offer herself in front of the Dragon as food. Their daughter overheard their talking and said that only the offering of herselfto the dragon would suffice. For the sake of her parents, the daughter could not bear to see either mother or father die and face a life in the orphanage. Moreover, her parents
could always have more children in her place As her parents listened on, they strictly forbade their daughter from committing such adeed. How could they ever bear the loss of their only child? How could they ever bear her absence? Yet still the daughter insisted and faced with little choice, the little family made its way to the banks of the lake in readiness for the dragon's midday meal. There they fastened a sheep and left the little girl at the eating spot and returned home in deep grief and sorrow As the girl wallowed deep in thought, a young man suddenly appeared and asked the girlher purpose on this lonely spot. The girl told him that she was the only daughter of her parents and she was here to sacrifice herself to the dragon that lived in the lake, for if she did not, the whole village would be destroyed. The child then became anxious about the safety of the young man and insisted he return from whence he came.
The man listened intently and calming the child, lay his head in her lap for her to check for
lice, as was the Tradition at the time. As the Dragon's lunchtime approached, the waters of the lake beganto writhe and fearful for the young man's safety, the young girl began to cry softly. Her tears woke the man who was deeply moved at the child's anguish. The child repeated that the dragon's dinner time had arrived and he must go quickly for his own safety
Hearing these words the young man stood up and pulling his sword from its sheath,
readied himself to battle the dragon. As the dragon's first head rose from the lake, the
man lashed out and cut it off with a single stroke. The Dragon said "You've cut off only
one head whereas I have eight more to come." "But," the man replied, "I have only used
one sword and I still have eight more swords to come". One by one the Dragon brought
its heads out of the lake and each time, the man cut them off with one stroke until finally
the dragon was no more. The lake was red with the blood of the dead Dragon, and the
dead body began to float on the surface.
Despite the weight, the young man took the dragon's big head on his little finger and
placed on a big stone three times before resting it on the ground. It would normally take
two men to pick up such a head. The man told the girl that when she returns to the
village, many men would claim to be the dragon's killer, yet if he could repeat the actions
of the young man at that moment, then he would be the true slayer. Then he gave his
sword sheath to the girl and said, "Go back, and announce to the villagers that from today
on you all are free from your difficulties and there will be no more problems to bother
you in the future.". The girl returned to Yishkok village and as the young man had
foretold, nobody believed her story. They claimed she was disobedient and they began to
fear for their lives. She told them about the incident but the people did not believe her. She took them with herself and went to the lake and showed them the dead body of the Dragon floating on the surface of water. Then as the man had predicted many men from the village claimed to be the dragon's slayer. So the girl told them that if any man could fit the sword into its sheath, then they were the true killer of the Second, she told them to put the big head of the Dragon on the same stone thrice using only their little finger, which the man had done easily. Every one of them tried their best, but all of them failed. Even three men together could not lift the large head completely! As the claimers were trying to prove to be the
killer besides the lake, the young man appeared and the girl identified him. Not only
could the man fit his sword in the cover, but he was also able to easily raise the dragon's
big head on his little finger and placeon the same stone three times before placing on the
ground. Thus the second test was passed and the villagers were astonished. The man
said to them, "this was your test and from today you are free. There will be no problems
for you now. Go back, be gentle, remember God and give up your bad ways. If you
experience any problems in the future, come to Ruvai (the hilly area west of Yishkok
village) and say "Ya Ali." From then on the villages changed their ways and life
prospered for a while.
Many years later the villagers forgot their past difficulties and once again continued their
bad ways. One day there was a marriage in a house and the villagers arranged for much
music, dance and other immoral dues. That night the party reached a frenzy and with the
lights turned off many of the men entertained immoral activities with the womenfolk at
the party. As the lights switched back on, the men realised with horror that many of
those womenfolk were in fact their close relations. One at the party remembered the
saying of the young man on Ruvai Hill who had told the villagers to come to him in time
of need. Yet was it true that a young man had killed the Dragon? Would he really come
in times of trouble to Ruvai Hill if we shout "Ya Ali" from the hill-top? So off they set
up to Ruvai hill to cry the man's name and test his words.
As the people cried "Ya, Ali" a young man suddenly appeared amongst them riding on a
white horse. He asked the reason of their problem. Not wishing to face embarrassment,
the people insolently claimed that they were being attacked from down the valley. Thus,
the young man set off to greet the attackers and prevent the danger only stopping for
prayer at Sherisubz (present day Jamal Khan). To this day one can still see the
impressions left by his feet, knees and elbows on the same stone and it is a well known
holy place (or 'osthoon') in the valley. Further more, on the occasion of the death of any
person in Chipursan, a beautiful light emits from the place and silently begins to travel
towards the west side of the valley (e.g. towards Ispenj). For three days there afterwards
children's weeping can be heard at this spot. Even more astonishing is that two years
the owner of Rashit's village guest house saw a man with a white beard sitting at the same
place.
The man continued on to Kirmin village where he rested his horse and the site where he placed his horse's saddle is today a walled shrine. Eastwards the man headed towards Yarzrich and at Riship Jerav stream he left the blanket of his horse as a symbol for the future. Finally the man came to the head of the Chipursan valley (today's Sost), but he could see no sign of the people's enemy.
Where he stopped the same man grasped a stone with three fingers and the symbol of that action is present there
today as a walled shrine called Punjab Shah (and from which oil exudes today). The man
then travelled further on still to Irshad top through Yishkok to see whether attackers
could reach the villagers from present day Afghanistan or Russia, but still no one was
coming from that side.
When the man returned to Yishkok, he told the people that they were cunning,
disobedient and dishonest and that the village must repent with it's destruction by a heavy
storm. However not all the villagers were bad and there was one who did not share the
habits of the rest of the village. Mr. Gulbast lived in Yishkok with his family and knew
of the villager's bad ways. He did not attend the marriage at the house the previous night
nor had any of his family members. One night later, the noble man had a dream in which
a saintly man told him to shift his family to Dankoth, a small village higher up the valley.
The saint warned Mr. Gulbast that Yishkok was about to be ruined by a mighty storm from beyond the Khunjerab. The following morning Gulbast awoke early to find his Yak,
which usually grazed far in the mountains above, standing obediently outside his front
door. His worst fears were confirmed and gathering his family members and belongings
they moved to Dankoth village as the first black clouds swirled overhead. As the family
reached Ruvai hill the first rains quickly turned into a violent storm and many of the
nobleman's cattle perished along the way. After reaching Dankoth, the nobleman
returned to Yishkok village but as he reached Ruvai, nothing of the village remained and
only a huge lake stood in its place.
To this day, Punjab Shah is still a pilgrimage site and a lesson for all those people who
wish to test the fate of the people of Yishkok village.
The Real Story of Baba Ghundi Ziarat
This history is originally written in the Persian language and is today in possession of the son's of the late Caliph Adil Baig one of the most famous Ed Baba Ghundi was a venerable and religious preceptor from Ghund in Northern Afghanistan. Despite his youth, the Baba had many pupils and one day he set out on a journey across today's North Pakistan into the Chipursan valley, with an elderly student and the man's two sons. Their luggage was loaded on a simple camel. They began their journey from their home town in Ghund and reached at Punja (in Afghanistan) where they stayed at the home of the Mir & Pir of Punja whose name was Shah Qanbar-i- Aftab. They remained in the Mir's home for 15 days and Baba became engaged to the Mir's daughter. The Pir-i- Punja arranged their marriage and gave them a white camel, two yambus (the most precious ornament or stone) and many other things in stipend to her daughter before seeing them off on their journey.
After many days travel through Puthukh and Sarhad (Northern Afghanistan) the tiny
caravan eventually reached Istiman at the beginning of Chipursan. Without warning,
Baba Ghundi fell into a deep fever and told his distraught followers he was departing this
earth for an eternity of peace. Within half an hour Baba's wife, also lost her life due to
the unbearable grief of her beloved husband's departure. Before his death, Baba
instructed his followers to bury both he and his wife in the same grave, together with one
Yambu. He also entrusted them to carry the rest of his belongings back to the Mir of
Punja to relate what had happened. Thus all the Baba's requirements were fulfilled by the
elderly devotee and his two sons.
After the burial of both Baba Ghundi and his wife the man and his sons set off back to
Afghanistan. Along the way the old man fell sick through old age and told his sons he
was dying. He then entrusted them to complete the journey and to bury his body in the
manner he described. In the final days of the old man's life, the sons cared for their father
and on the fateful night that the old man died, the elder son disappeared. Within time he
returned in great sorrow and told his younger brother how he had stolen the luggage and
the white camel that night and in his folly had lost both in the nearby river whilst crossing.
Before their father had died, he had instructed both sons to load his body on their remaining camel and to bury it wherever the beast lay down along the way. Thus the next morning the two brothers set off. At the place of present day Puthukh, the camel suddenly lay down and the old man's body was buried in a spot that some say is still visible to this day. After the burial the sons continued their grief stricken way back to the Mir of Punja and related all that happened. They expressed their sorrow at the loss of the Baba's items for which the Pir and Mir forgave them and the sons returned home to Ghundi. Thus was told the true tale of Baba Ghundi.
The Lesson of Kampeer Diyor
Kampeer Diyor is a small village (Kampeer means 'old woman' Diyor means 'village')
Situated in Shitmerg the second to last village while traveling from Sost to Chipursan.
This is a real story dating from a previous time when the people who lived here were
carefree, irresponsible and life was easy. The people had wealth and every thing was
available to them. But there also lived one old woman in the village who was very poor
and lived in a cave (which still exists to this day). She had only one black Sheep whose
milk was the only source of her living. The other inhabitants of this small village were
very cruel and had no any idea of humanity or education. Their occupation was farming.
They didn't know how to respect people and how to care for a guest nor did even the
honour of their women. They neglected others and their ways were selfish concerned
only with their enjoyment particularly during weddings.
One night an old man appeared and with a curved stick in his hand went from door to
door in the village asking for a little food to eat. The villagers treated the old man cruelly.
Some laughed at his poorness, others scolded him whilst still others spat on him and
pushed him away from their doors. The Saint continued to visit until at last he reached
the cave of Bedah who was present in her home. Bedah was shocked to find the fellow in
such condition and she exclaimed "Oh! My dear father, who are you? How did you come
to my poor house? I have nothing especial in my house to serve you, I have only a black
Sheep giving me a little milk and this broken pot in which I boil the little milk I have to
live." Despite this, Bedah offered the little milk she had in the broken pot to the saint who
was deeply touched by her generosity. Lowering his curved stick, the saint touched it to
the broken pot and magically the post changed into a new one filled to the brim with milk.
While thanking the old woman he said, "I know that you have many household things in
your home and in those of your neighbours. By noon tomorrow, bring all your
belongings back to your home and climb with them to the high area above the village to
behold the fate of all in this village except you. Bedah started collecting all her pots and
other household things from the other houses. While bringing back all the materials she
forgot her sieve in a house of her neighbour.
The next day at noon, Bedah climbed to the high area above her village (where our
religious prayer hall is built today) and she sat waiting of the foretold event. At exactly
noontime the old man suddenly appeared from a nearby ravine and touching his stick to
the brook a heavy storm followed behind him. Bedah looked on in astonishment as the
storm followed the old man wherever he went stopping where he stopped and
continuing whereever he walked. The flood waters began to rise and Bedah's sieve
appeared on the surface near the old man. With a flick of his crook, he whisked the
utensil towards Bedah who gratefully picked it up. Gradually, the entire village sank
under the heavy storm waters. Local people tell that for seven years after the storm the
cries of the dying villagers could still be heard in that spot.
My (the writer's) uncle Sheikh Hassan says that when he was kid looking for cattle he
was playing with friends when suddenly he saw a hole like a house chimney, similar to
how we build our traditional house roofs these days. Although he couldn't see inside it
because it was too dark he clearly identified that it could only be a house of that time. He
threw stones down the hole and heard the sounds of clanking iron pots as the stones met
their marks. He was only a child and afraid of that unseen event, he hurried back to his
uncle's house to tell about his discovery. He later returned with his Uncle Azamat Shah
to rediscover the home there but they searched and searched in vain and try as they might,
they couldn't find the hole again. Disappointingly they returned home and though my
uncle has searched there many times since, he hasn't able to find the ancient dwelling.
According to our belief it is in possession of Giants and Ferries. There are many places in
our area where people from antiquity have hidden riches in unapproachable places that
attackers couldn't reach or find. In previous times many attackers used to attack this
valley's population from the different parts of nearby countries like Russia, China and
Afghanistan . You know that there was never any harmony, unity and peace within those
peoples.
Discovery of the Tomb Baba Ghundi
In previous times warfare was common to this area and attackers from neighbouring
countries like Afghanistan, Russia and China were often invading each other. Thus every
state vouched for their own safety and stationed soldiers on all their borders. So it was
that the state of Hunza stationed two soldiers at Ziarat Post on its Afghan border. One of
the solders was called Khurram Shah. Both soldiers were on duty one day near the Ziarat (tomb) when suddenly they saw a lame wolf walking from the Western side of Baba Ghundi whilst all the way barking. It was a Wednesday, and when it reached near the graveyard it started walking around a special grave seven times continuing to bark. As it cleared its last round it continued its walk towards the east. When it reached the pasture area, from the same grave the soldiers heard a voice say to the wolf "go I have given you the eleven Sheep of Shursing there at Hindi (Hunza). You will get your food there on
Thursday." The two soldiers were very surprised and identified the same grave.
They decided to confirm what they had seen that day and one of them travelled back to
Hunza (Hindi). After four days the soldier reached Ganish in Hunza and took rest for
some while. Whilst resting, he overheard locals tell that on Thursday eleven sheep of
Sharsing were eaten by a lame wolf. When the Mir of Hunza heard this tale from the
soldier, he came to the Ziarat and ordered his workers to build the tomb in a specific way
over the sight of the grave. The workers built the tomb and successful Mirs continued to
visit the sight and maintain it. After the breakup of Hunza state, the people of Chipursan
continued to maintain the tomb and even today many people still make a pilgrimage to
the tomb to pay their respects.
Today it is clear that the same tomb is sacred. After many years it has been confirmed
that Baba Ghundi (saint) whose name was Muhammad Baqir, had indeed come from
Ghund and died here, buried by his believer. The Journey of Baba Ghundi is also written
in the Persian language and the book is presently in Afghanistan in possession of the
children of the late Caliph Adil Baig. Thus the shrine of Baba Ghundi was discovered by
the lame wolf.
Trekking in the Valley
Here are some suggestions for treks in the Chipursan area. Please contact the local guides as they will give you their best services. Here are some easy day hikes, others involve glacier crossings, horses or yaks. For any questions please ask the local guides and feel free to let them know if you are interested in anything specific.
Kirmin Pass
(2-3 days) Junction of Pamir & Karakoram, see "Silkroad." Possible in 3 days and 2
nights. Visit Vuin Sar see Klik and Mintika and Sue Qeer, a beautiful fresh water lake
and wildlife, connected with Misgar and Qalandarchi fort.
Spandrin Sar, Khrid Sar, Sekr Peak behind Goz and Kirmin Dur
(3 days and 2 nights) Behind Shikore Goz you will find many herbs and flowers and see a
beautiful Peak called Sekr Peak which is unexplored to this day and unique in the area.
Kirmin Dur is connected with Khill Dur and is a very interesting trek with tremendous
wildlife.
Khill Dur, Sumayar, Mashthin
(2 days and 2 nights) High peak (unexplored). Khill Dur is connected with Lupgar and
it's interest lies in its abundant wildlife and good pasture area. Sumayar and Mashthin are
both easy to reach with nice camping and waterfalls.
Rashthigar (meadow) and Rashthigar Peak
(2 days 1 night) An unexplored Peak covered with snow for twelve months and a holy
point (osthoon) for local people. Here an oil exuding stone exists, which when lit
remains bright all night. Rashthigar meadow is connected with Lupgar Meadow and is
an incredibly beautiful place.
Jui Sam & Yishkok
(Easy, nice camping) Start from Zood Khon to explore the nearby lake and swimming or
fishing. Be sure to visit Yishkok glacier to see Chapurson's highest mountain.
Access to Baba Ghundi
(3.5hrs from Yishkok) Easy walk along a jeep road to see the shrine of Baba Ghundi and
Dragon lake. Along the way meet shepherds and Kyrgyz coming down from Afghanistan
to trade. Baba Ghundi makes a great base for other small explorations in the area. You
can alternatively reach Baba Ghundi by Jeep (45 min) or trek along the opposite side of
the road (beautiful camping).
Baba Ghundi to Kuz Sar
(Moderate, unexplored) Camping out on a glacier with views of the Pamir Mountains,
Kuz Sar Peak and more
Pamiri
(Easy, reach by Yak) Visit Chapurson's favorite high point which is especially nice in
June through September with many flowers, wildlife and multi-colored mountains.
Experience Wakhi hospitality and a shepherd's life!
Irshad Vuin
(Moderate/strenuous, reach by horse) This 4925m Pass marks the border with
Afghanistan in the Wakhan Corridor, with an incredible variety of scenery, multi-hued
mountains and Kyrgyz traders.
Ghulam Ali’s Pass
(Moderate/strenuous, unexplored) Experience the Red canyon, glacier crossing, natural
stone bridge and view the Afghan Pamirs at the end of it all.
Lupgar Pir Pass
(Moderate) Cross a glacier, summit the Lupgar Pir Pass (5190) and trek from Yishkok to
Raminji to see two famous snowy Peaks: Saker Sar and another at Lupgar Sar.
Zood Khon Pass to Misgar Valley
(Moderate) Enjoy the view on Yishkok Glacier and Dilisang Sar Peak during your
crossing from one valley into the next. It's possible to extend the trek to see Mintaka Pass
(Chinese border).
Chilinj An
(Strenuous, reach by yak) Dare a glacial crossing with ropes, experience stunning views
and see Karambar Lake & Valley during your crossing from Gojal to Chitral.
Yuksh Goz
(Strenuous, technical) Trek opened in 2001 takes 12-15 days. Cross a glacier with ropes
and trek from Chapurson to Passu via the Batua Glacier which is rarely visited and an
excellent chance to see wildlife.
Special Treks
Rent a Yak (Yaks will be used to transport your luggage).
Go by Horse (Either ride yourself or use horses to transport luggage).
Women with women (Trek to the high pastures with Wakhi women).
Explore new passes (many unclimbed and unnamed peaks).
Useful Information
Guest Houses
1. Village Family Guest House (Chipursan Tourist Guests Guest House) at Rashit Chipurson (for foreign and local tourists) situated at a very pleasant location owned by Subidar® Mr. Sabz Ali.
2. Family Guest House Kirmin (only for foreigners) owned by Mr.Muhammad Wafi.
3. Sumayar Guest House Khill (only for foreigners) owned by Mr. Sher Ahmed Khan
(Tourist Guide).
4. Village Family Guest House Rashit owned by Mr. Iqbal Khan and sons.
5. Village Guest House Sherisubz owned by Mr. Rasool Khan.
6. Family Style Guest House owned by Ahmed Khan at Ispenj.
7. Mr.Alam Jan's Family style Guest House "Pamir Sarai" at Zood Khon and Baba
Ghundi Ziarat.
Respected visitors, in all of the above Guest Houses you will feel easy. You will experience
the environment, eat traditional food and local guides are frequently available.
Jeep Times
Time taken from Sost to the different villages of Chipursan by vehicle:
1. Yarzrich
00:45 min
2. Raminji
00:55 min
3. Karmin
:40 hrs
4. Khill
2:00 hrs
. Rashit
2:15 hrs
6. Sherisubz
2:20 hrs
7. Ispenji
2:35 hrs
Kampeer Diyor
2:45 hrs
9. Shitmerg
2:50 hrs
10. Zood Khun
3:00 hrs
THANK YOU ______________________________________
2 comments:
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wazir said...
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very...good bro..keep the good work up....nice very nice...
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September 17, 2011 at 2:55 PM
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wazir said...
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CHIPURSON....ZINDABAD...
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September 17, 2011 at 2:56 PM
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2 comments:
very...good bro..keep the good work up....nice very nice...
CHIPURSON....ZINDABAD...
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